Etienne Calsac, Champagne Les Revenants [Base 2022], NV Winback Summer 2020 They still use concrete vats

They still use concrete vats for much of the work — a holdout position in a region that has largely abandoned the tradition

almonds and biscuits with flinty touches

in a neat pour or over ice

roast chicken

Etienne Calsac, Champagne Les Revenants [Base 2022], NV Winback Summer 2020 They still use concrete vatsLes Revenants means "those who return"a nod to the near forgotten Champagne grapes Etienne Calsac brought back to life. He planted Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, and a whisper of Arbane himself on a sandy parcel in the Cte de Szanne, where the sand over chalk soil helps these late ripening ghosts actually ripen. Everything is picked and pressed together the same day, then aged in large barrels, giving a Champagne unlike anything else in his cellar. This