Calera, Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard, 1995 BRUNELLODI040225 carefully crafted to balance bitterness

carefully crafted to balance bitterness with a vibrant array of spices and citrus

extended élevage in large neutral Slavonian casks

treats this cru with techniques that vanished from the Langhe by the 1980s: whole-cluster foot treading in open vats

The mouthfeel is austere

Calera, Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard, 1995 BRUNELLODI040225 carefully crafted to balance bitternessJosh Jensen spent two years combing geological surveys for limestone in California because he came home from harvests in Burgundy convinced the rock was the whole point and Mt. Harlan, high in the Gabilan Mountains south of Hollister, is what he found. Mills is one of the six vineyards he planted there, put in the ground in 1984 and named for John Everett Mills, who built the works for the property's old limestone operation, with vines sitting at